New Rotors and Pads

"KMarino" (KMarino) 08/09/2013 at 17:34 • Filed to: None

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I got my tires rotated today and was informed that I need new Front pads and rotors. I was pretty sure they were worn, so it wasn't a surprise to me. I'm considering doing the job my self. I wanted to get some feed back on what new rotors and pads i should use.

I have a 06 Mustang GT. No mods. Stock 17" rims. Its a daily driver so I don't need tons of performance, but I want them to be good.

Also how hard is it to change the pads and rotors. I haven't done tons of work on my own, but I'm not afraid to learn how to do it. Any one have any good how-to's?

HammerheadFistpunch > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:36

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pads are a breeze, rotors too, and FYI - rotors rarely go bad unless you've been grinding metal, they may need to be resurfaced, but any old shop can do it. Most of the time its a non-issue. A shop that tells you that you need new rotors is a shop trying to rip you off.

MR2_FTW - Group J's resident Stig > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:36

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NAPA premium rotors are pretty good for the money. As for how-to's, check Mustang forums for car-specific advice, otherwise just youtube it. It's usually super simple.

RiceRocketeer Extraordinaire > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:37

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Doesn't seem too bad if you've got the tools. Hondas, in contrast, have these irritating screws holding the rotor that rust to oblivion.

Nerd-Vol > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:39

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Front pads and rotors are a easy. Doing the rear can be a pain in the ass in terms of pushing the piston back in. I think any of the high quality stuff at your local autoparts store should do, or go to rockauto.

iforgotmyburnerkeyonce > HammerheadFistpunch 08/09/2013 at 17:39

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Unless you drive a VW...

HammerheadFistpunch > iforgotmyburnerkeyonce 08/09/2013 at 17:40

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if you drive a VW its not easy, or the rotors go bad, I'm on my second VW and I do my own brakes.

Decay buys too many beaters > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:41

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First off, get a factory service manual (or a Haynes for simple things like brakes), it will have torque specs and tricks that may be specific to your car. Another good idea is to search youtube for a video of someone changing the brakes on a similar model car.

Overall though changing your (disc) brakes is one of the simplest things maintenance procedures to do, falling right around oil changes in terms of complexity.

Casper > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:42

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Changing pads and rotors is just dirty, not hard... unless you have a Honda. For some unknown reason Honda engineers think it's funny to put little Phillips head screws in the rotors to hold them in place during assembly, but not remove them. After 50,000 miles of heat cycling, they are a pain in the ass to get out.

iforgotmyburnerkeyonce > HammerheadFistpunch 08/09/2013 at 17:42

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I'm due for pads, and looking at the rotors, they aren't looking too hot. Someone told me that VW designs their rotors to expire at the same time as the pads? Can you put some substance behind this or no?

dsigned001 - O.R.C. hunter > HammerheadFistpunch 08/09/2013 at 17:44

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Depending on the car, New rotors may be just as cheap as resurfaced rotors. I always replace my rotors because of this: if a shop screws up the resurfacing, your rotors now suck and you need new pads again.
But then I change my own brake stuff, so the cost difference is minimal and it's actually easier to just replace them.

desertdog5051 > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:44

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Don't buy the cheapest pads or rotors (if you really need them) Hammerhead is correct for the most part. If you have grooves in the rotor, take them to a place that can turn them first. OEM parts are some good stuff so try to reuse them if you can.

Another tip, take the top off the master cylinder when you compress the pistons to get the new pads to go over the rotors. Prevents any air from getting introduced into the system. Compress the pistons with an old pad and a C clamp. The whole process is very easy.

Nerd-Vol > RiceRocketeer Extraordinaire 08/09/2013 at 17:45

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Fuck these things!!!!!!!!

Nerd-Vol > Casper 08/09/2013 at 17:45

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fuckem!

dogisbadob > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 17:48

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I suggest Centric Premium rotors. They have a black coating on the rotor hat to deter rust. This rust makes it difficult if not impossible to take the wheels off.

For the pads, I like the Axxis Deluxe, Wagner Thermoquiet, and Akebono ProACT.

Decay buys too many beaters > dsigned001 - O.R.C. hunter 08/09/2013 at 17:48

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This.

I've also found that its easier (and cheaper) to install new rotors rather than reworking the existing ones. It especially holds true on domestic cars.

HammerheadFistpunch > iforgotmyburnerkeyonce 08/09/2013 at 17:50

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Rotors are thick pieces of steel, they don't warp and their wear rate is slow. Im not sure why they would wear out at anything like the rate pads would. if they are grooved or are looking warped (an uneven accumulation of brake material) they a machinist can mill them a tiny amount and bring them back into spec.

HammerheadFistpunch > dsigned001 - O.R.C. hunter 08/09/2013 at 17:51

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This is true too, Tirerack usually has a good eal on replaement rotors.

NaturallyAspirated > dogisbadob 08/09/2013 at 17:56

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I got those rotors for my Subaru. They were only about $10 each more than the cheapest rotors on RockAuto, and they are really nice, since as you say, they prevent the rotor from rusting to the hub.

RiceRocketeer Extraordinaire > Nerd-Vol 08/09/2013 at 17:59

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You know exactly what I mean. I don't think people even replace them after their first set of discs.

dsigned001 - O.R.C. hunter > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 18:07

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Apparently it can be trickier on newer cars than older, so I would check the mustang forums before making any concrete decisions, but generally speaking it's very easy.
As far as what to buy: cheap rotors and nice pads. Drilled and our slotted rotors east through pads and contribute mainly to cooling, rather than stopping. And they are all cast iron, which is to say that they're all pretty much the same.
Pads, otoh, are not all the same and performance pads will resist brake fade and give superior stopping power at the possible expense of brake noise and dust.

I hoon, therefore I am > Nerd-Vol 08/09/2013 at 18:20

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UNLESS YOU'VE GOT A HONDA THEN FUCKEM!!!!!!1!!!!one!!!!!!1eleven1!!!!!

haha, sorry, I had to. This pic popped up in a couple of the comment threads.

Nerd-Vol > I hoon, therefore I am 08/09/2013 at 18:24

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That was me. I hate those things, they make em out of butter or something!

Nerd-Vol > RiceRocketeer Extraordinaire 08/09/2013 at 18:25

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I did once. My friend threatened to stab me, so I put them back on to spite him.

Biapilotaceman > KMarino 08/09/2013 at 18:30

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I just did this last weekend. It's a breeze. (I own a 2007 GT)
OH! Except you're going to need to rent a brake caliper tool set from your local auto shop because the rear calipers don't compress conventionally. They need to be rotated while pressure is being applied, and that's a pain in the ass without the proper tools.

Union of Smog Techs of CA > HammerheadFistpunch 08/09/2013 at 20:13

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Idiotic driving habits, improper torque of lugs, glazing, cheap metal, loose wheel bearing rotor/pad alignment.

http://www.thelostartof.net/gsellstr/ASE%2…

I put new on, machine the old ones if thick enough and then have spares, I like spares.

conrader > KMarino 08/10/2013 at 10:33

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Do stainless steel brake lines too! Improved the feel by a LOT on my 05 Stang. I did new rotors from newtakeoff and then different pads from americanmuscle.com. I think they were Hawk performance ceramic pads: http://www.americanmuscle.com/ceramic-0508-g…

I'm quite pleased with this setup now. They stop hard.